Valparaiso

Valparaíso is a city of around 300,000 people located on Central Chile’s Pacific coast. Frequently abbreviated as Valpo, it is situated around 120 kilometers west of Santiago de Chile. The city is well-known for its bohemian lifestyle, vibrantly colored homes, and stunning sea vistas.

Valparaiso is a historic port town that has been such for hundreds of years that it was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003.

Its position on the shipping routes prior to the Panama Canal’s construction left a legacy that can still be observed in numerous elements of the ancient port town. Another legacy is its placement in an earthquake zone, which was devastated by the 1906 earthquake. It has also experienced recent earthquakes.

The ancient town is surrounded by elements that reflect a period when Chile had a thriving maritime legacy and was a source of national pride – a place where its naval superiority was tested and maintained.

While meandering around the chaotic, steep streets and soaking in the vistas and ambience, you are not only witnessing the port amid the colorful buildings and funicular railroads, but also a complicated history of Chilean national identity and politics.

The medieval town is appropriately contrasted with the more contemporary Viña del Mar to the north, as well as the hinterland leading to Santiago.

Additionally, there is a vibrant nightlife and a continuously changing array of creative events.

Valparaíso is situated in central Chile, about 120 kilometers (75 miles) north of the capital Santiago. Valparaíso, like the rest of Chile, is earthquake-prone. Prior to the magnitude 8.8 earthquake on February 27, 2010, the previous major earthquake to hit Valparaíso decimated the city in August 1906, killing over 3,000 people. Additionally, the city was impacted by the 1730 Valparaíso earthquake and the 1985 Algarrobo earthquake.

Valparaíso is prone to earthquakes due to its closeness to the Peru–Chile Trench. The Peru–Chile Trench can store enormous quantities of energy for an extremely long period of time and sometimes ruptures in strong earthquakes after brief periods.

Tourism, culture, shipping, and freight transit are all significant industry.

During the four-month Chilean summer, around 50 foreign cruise ships stop in Valparaiso. Valparaíso’s port is also a major container freight center, exporting a variety of goods, including wine, copper, and fresh fruit.

The port of Valparaíso is split into ten sites, with South Pacific Terminal SA administering sites 1,2,3,4 and 5, and Valparaíso Port Company administering sites 6,7,8,9 and 10. The latter two locations incorporate a pier and serve as public walkways and a cruise passenger terminal, respectively.

Valparaíso is Chile’s primary container and passenger port, handling ten million tons yearly and serving over 50 cruise ships and 150,000 people.

There is no airport in Valparaiso. Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport (SCL), in Santiago, which is about 1.5 hours distant and has substantial domestic and international service, is the closest airport with commercial service.

You must board a bus to Pajaritos outside the terminal of Santiago’s airport in order to get to Valparaiso. You will be dropped off at the bus/subway station “Pajaritos” on the outskirts of Santiago; cross to the bus platform on the south side of the subway station. Buses to Valparaiso and other places depart often from here; you may also take the metro into Santiago’s central business district. Before arriving to Pajaritos, a bus ticket is typically not required.

Between Valparaiso and Limache, as well as other municipalities, the Metro Valparaiso or Merval operates. It is very new, spotless, and operates from 6 AM to 1 AM. Depending on the time of day and the distance traveled, adult costs range from CH$204 to CH$1080; however, value cards with a balance of at least CH$1200 must be used; single tickets are not offered.

Although Valparaiso itself might be a little challenging to navigate, the region’s roadway network is typically of great quality. Be aware that highways frequently have tolls.

Along with service to the Argentine city of Mendoza, buses from a broad range of locations in Chile provide regular service to Valparaiso. The National Congress building is not far from the bus station.

Approximate bus travel times to/from Valparaiso:

• 1.5 hours: Santiago de Chile (many times every hour)
• 7 hours: La Serena (every other hour)
• 12 hours: Mendoza, Argentina (the road may be closed in winter due to bad weather)

Local buses also ply between Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, taking about 15 minutes each way. Fares range from Ch$350 to Ch$380.

Some cruise ships dock in Valparaiso, mostly as part of a long South American itinerary. Also possible is a Freighter Cruise from Mexico, taking two weeks and making several stops along the way.

Transporte Metropolitano Valparaso is in charge of the city micros. On the website, under “Empresas,” you can see the exact routes and prices. Single trips between El Plan and the hills cost approximately Ch$300 and cost about Ch$250 for local routes.

Colectivos, which are black taxis with yellow roofs that travel defined routes, are a widely used method of transportation in and around Valparaiso, Via del Mar, and other nearby communities. While more expensive than the bus or subway, the cost of the ride is determined by the distance traveled according to a system of zones. Regular taxis can also provide customized services, although they are less popular and more costly. Taxis of this kind frequently cluster around Plaza Anibal Pinto.

The Metro Valparaso or Merval light-rail system, which was just finished, follows the coastline. It travels from the port in Valparaiso to Via del Mar and other more remote areas. The metro is just little more costly than using a public bus and offers speedy access to important tourist destinations. Depending on the time of day and the distance traveled, adult costs range from CH$204 to CH$1080; however, value cards with a balance of at least CH$1200 must be used; single tickets are not offered.

El Plan, or the coastal strip, and the cerros, or hillside towns, are connected by ascensores, or funiculars. They are often ancient and creaking but generally trustworthy. In the past, there used to be a greater number in operation. Check because some either no longer run or close for maintenance. Going up or down may occasionally result in a different fare, although both routes cost around CH$300. In Valparaiso, theascensors are a distinctive method of transportation that provide stunning views of the metropolis, harbor, and Pacific Ocean.

MARKET / SUPERMARKET

RESTAURANTS

ENTERTAINMENT

PERSONAL CARE

CLOTHES / SHOES

TRANSPORTATION

• Cerros Alegre and Concepción
• Plaza Echaurren – Serrano Street
• Cerro Cordillera
• Banking area – Prat Street
• Paseo 21 de Mayo (Cerro Artilleria)
• La Matriz Church and surroundings
• Ascensores (inclines)
• La Sebastiana, one of three homes of poet Pablo Neruda
• Ex Cárcel, a former jail turned cultural center and concert venue
• Museo Naval y Maritimo (Naval and Maritime Museum), Paseo 21 de Mayo 45, at top of Ascensor Artillería, +56 32 2437651. Tuesday to Sunday, 10AM to 6PM. This museum is dedicated to military naval exploits and battles, and puts a large focus on the Chilean victory against Peru and Bolivia in the War of the Pacific. 
• Plaza Sotomayor. The central square near the port and the heart of the old seaport city.

It would be similar to visiting Venice without taking a Gondola ride to say that visiting Valparaiso without using the ascensores (inclines) would be a waste of time (around 20 US cents). Additionally, they serve a practical use by facilitating locals’ access to the upper elevations of the city and sparing them from having to climb up otherwise exhaustingly lengthy and arduous pedestrian paths.

Every year, during the last week of the year, Valparaiso hosts a carnival that everyone should go to at least once. Every year, a different nation is the focus of the festival, and artists and performers from that nation are asked to participate and showcase their work in theater, music, and other performing arts. The majority of events are free and place outside. The event comes to a close with one of the world’s top five most magnificent fireworks displays. Oops, but hurry up; on certain days, the city’s population triples. Visit the Mirador del Cerro Artillery for a panoramic view of Via del Mar, Reaca, Concón, and more; it’s highly recommended.

On the first floor is the Mirador “Walk May 21,” (delivered to the community in the year 1911) where it is impossible not to enjoy the restaurant “Calafquén,” typical dishes of fresh seafood, with a fair value. It is accessible through the “lift” Artillery, in operation since 1893 (ask for Customs plaza area), and its current value is 250 Chilean pesos. We have a craft fair here where people can purchase everything from winter clothing (ponchos, Ruan, scarves, socks, gloves, and wool hats) to souvenirs in a wide range of designs and price ranges, up to figures and jewelry made from lapis lazuli (a semi-precious blue stone found only in Chile and Afghanistan). Based on the cost and quality of the stone, I suggest the last local vendor. Visit the Naval Museum as well; it costs 500 Chilean pesos and is located in the Paseo.

The Chorrillana, a heaping mound of french fries topped with steak, onions, and eggs, is the most popular dish for tourists in Valparaiso. This is available for purchase at the renowned restaurant J Cruz. For any seafood enthusiast, a visit to one of the many eateries in the city, particularly those in the muelle (wharf) regions, is a must.

Nearly every street has a bakery, and they create pretty tasty breads that may be consumed fresh from the oven at practically any time of the day. They taste best when covered in Palta, which is widely farmed in Chile (palta is the Chilean and Argentinian word for what is known the anglo world like “avocado”, known in most other Spanish-speaking countries as aguacate). Along with the different varieties of bread, empanadas, a flaky pastry that resembles a French croissant and is filled with meat or cheese, are another commonly accessible snack to keep you satiated while you stroll the streets.

On the second floor of the Mercado Cardonal (cnr Ave Brasil and Uruguay) there are a few excellent, cheap and midrange restaurants serving lunch.

• Chile – Suecia, Calle Bellavista (Just off the square). Open even on Sundays. Good sandwiches, hot dogs and set menus at $2500.
• El Valenciano, Avenida Colon 3110, +56 32 225 1619. Delicious chicken, good sandwiches and good value meals. 
• Estación Cielo Amierto, Ferrari 68 (Cerro Bellavista). A cute cafe on the Cerro Bellavista which has juices, smoothies, and sandwiches. 

• Bijoux (Bijoux Restobar), Abtao 561-A, Cerro Concepcion,  +56 9 9548 2321, e-mail: [email protected]. Beautiful little Restaurant in the heart of Cerro Concepciòn. Instead of a menu card, the chef and owner comes to you and according to the daily market specialities and your wishes he creates an individual menu just for you.The food is always fresh, delicious and offers an unique experience in Chile. cl$7900.

• Le Filou Montpellier Almte Montt 382. Great French-run restaurant in Cerro Concepciòn.

• Epif Calle Dr. Grossi 268, Cerro Alegre. Tastey vegetarian food and drinks at reasonable prices. Cozy cafe environment with great music and service.

• Delicatessen Emporio, Urriola 383, C. Concepcion (Head north (and up) from the Armada main buiding – two blocks),  +56 32-2339373. Beautiful food in a small, romantic setting. Carpaccio with oysters was exquisite, Garbanzo soup was flavorful (read: spicey), fresh and probably the best I’ve ever had. 7,500 for a full lunch. 

In addition to larger chain supermarkets like Lder on Pedro Montt and Brasil streets; Santa Isabel on Pedro Montt, Brasil, and Uruguay streets; and other small and non-chain supermarkets, Valparaiso has larger chain department stores like Ripley, which is situated in front of Victoria Square, and Falabella on Independencia street. The majority of other shopping is done in little shops on the hills or with street sellers. There are additional small, independent, specialty stores on Esmeralda, Condell, Pedro Montt, Independencia, and Chacabuco streets. On the eastern end of Avenida Brasil, there is a sizable shopping center.

The time to go out for a drink (Chileans refer to this as “salir de carrete”) starts no earlier than midnight on the weekends, although beginning a little earlier during the week. On weekends, the bars and clubs close at 5AM; on workdays, they close at 4AM.

Although there are laws against drinking in public places and that the legal drinking age is 18, they are not often strictly enforced. Some bars may not let patrons under the age of 18 in.

Bottles of quite delicious wines from Chile, a significant wine-producing nation, may be purchased for slightly more than $1.

• La Torre – offers inexpensive drinks, and is frequented by university students
• Balmaceda
• Barcelona
• La Piedra Feliz – a more expensive and touristy club that often features salsa dancing, mosty for the older crowds
• Club El Cielo
• Club Stockolmo
• Club El Huevo – one of the largest dance clubs in Valparaiso
• Bar La Playa
• Mascara – caters to an artsy and gay/lesbian crowd
• El Huevo – very large (five floors), diverse music, and a rooftop bar

Via del Mar also has a lot of pubs and clubs. It is completely possible to stay in one city and go out for the evening in another because public transit and taxis are available all through the night.

Valparaiso, like many harbor cities across the world, is among Chile’s more hazardous localities given that the country is generally considered to be safe. Prevent pickpockets by, for example, not hanging your purse or bag from the back of your chair when you are seated, as this increases the risk of theft. Although violent crime is exceedingly rare, standard safety precautions should be followed; avoid flashing precious jewelry when walking along the street. Even during the day, the port district, or “Puerto,” is regarded as unsafe.