Montevideo

Montevideo is Uruguay’s attractive capital city. It is located on the Rio de la Plata’s eastern bank. The city is home to well over a third of Uruguay’s population and serves as the country’s cultural and political capital.

Tourism contributes significantly to Uruguay’s economy. Montevideo’s tourism industry is concentrated on the Ciudad Vieja neighborhood, which has the city’s oldest structures, as well as various museums, art galleries, and nightclubs, with Sarand Street and the Mercado del Puerto being the most popular destinations in the old city. Square Independencia is located on the outskirts of Ciudad Vieja and is surrounded by several attractions, including the Sols Theatre and the Palacio Salvo; the plaza also serves as one end of 18 de Julio Avenue, the city’s most popular tourist destination outside of Ciudad Vieja. Apart from being a retail thoroughfare, the road is notable for its Art Deco architecture, three significant public squares, the Gaucho Museum, and the Palacio Municipal, among other attractions. The boulevard goes to Montevideo’s Obelisk; beyond that lies Parque Batlle, another popular tourist site along with Parque Prado. Along the coast, the Fortaleza del Cerro, the Rambla (the coastal boulevard), the 13 kilometers (8.1 miles) of sandy beaches, and Punta Gorda, as well as the Barrio Sur and Palermo barrios, draw a large number of visitors.

The Ministry of Tourism provides a two-and-a-half-hour city tour in English, Italian, Portuguese, and German, while the Montevideo Tourist Guide Association offers guided excursions in same languages. Apart from them, a slew of private firms arrange guided city excursions.

The city receives the majority of visitors from Argentina, Brazil, Chile, and Europe, with visitors from other parts of Latin America and the United States increasing each year, owing to an increasing number of international airline arrivals at Carrasco International Airport and luxury cruise ships that dock in Montevideo and frequently participate in The Wine Experience.

Montevideo has a moderate humid subtropical climate (Köppen climatic classification: Cfa). The city has temperate winters (June to September), scorching summers (December to March), and turbulent springs (October and November); the city experiences frequent thunderstorms but no tropical cyclones. Rainfall is consistent and equally distributed throughout the year, totaling around 950 mm (37 in).

Winters are often damp, breezy, and cloudy, and summers are hot and humid with little breeze. In the winter, bursts of freezing and generally dry winds and continental arctic air masses create an unwelcome chill in the city’s daily life. In the summer, a gentle sea breeze often blows in the evenings, providing a welcome cooling effect on the city, in contrast to Buenos Aires’s intolerable summer heat.

Montevideo’s yearly average temperature is 16.7 degrees Celsius (62.1 degrees Fahrenheit). The lowest temperature ever recorded is 5.6 degrees Celsius (21.9 degrees Fahrenheit), while the highest is 42.8 degrees Celsius (109.0 degrees Fahrenheit). Sleet is a common occurrence throughout the winter. Snowfall is exceedingly rare: just four flurries have been documented without accumulation, the most recent on 13 July 1930 at the World Cup’s opening match (the other three were in 1850, 1853, and 1917); the supposed 1980 Carrasco snowfall was really a hailstorm.

Montevideo is located on the northern bank of the Rio de la Plata, the Atlantic Ocean arm that divides Uruguay’s south coast from Argentina’s north coast; Buenos Aires is some 230 kilometers (140 miles) west on the Argentine side. To the west, the Santa Luca River serves as a natural boundary between Montevideo and the San José Department. Canelones Department is to the north and east of the city, with the Carrasco stream marking the city’s natural eastern boundary. The coastline that forms the city’s southern boundary is punctuated by rocky outcrops and sandy beaches. The Bay of Montevideo comprises a natural harbour, the biggest in the country and one of the largest in the Southern Cone, as well as the greatest natural port in the area, contributing significantly to Uruguay’s economy and international commerce. Numerous streams wind their way through the town, eventually emptying into the Bay of Montevideo. The shoreline and rivers are severely polluted and have a high salt level.

The city is on average 43 metres above sea level (141 ft). Two hills, the Cerro de Montevideo and the Cerro de la Victoria, rise to its highest point, the Cerro de Montevideo’s top, which is capped by a fortress, the Fortaleza del Cerro, at a height of 134 metres (440 ft). By road, the closest cities are Las Piedras to the north and Ciudad de la Costa (a agglomeration of coastal settlements) to the east, both of which are between 20 and 25 kilometers (16 miles) from the city center. By road, it is about 90 kilometers (56 miles) to San Jose de Mayo (San Jose Department) and 46 kilometers (29 miles) to Canelones (Canelones Department).

Montevideo, being Uruguay’s capital, serves as the country’s economic and political hub. The city is home to the majority of Uruguay’s biggest and richest firms. Since the 1990s, the city has experienced rapid economic development and modernization, culminating in the construction of two of Uruguay’s most significant structures—the World Trade Center Montevideo (1998) and the Telecommunications Tower (2000), the headquarters of Uruguay’s state-owned telecommunications company ANTEL, further integrating the city into the global marketplace.

The Port of Montevideo, located in the northern portion of Ciudad Vieja, is one of South America’s main ports and is critical to the city’s economy. Due to a growth in international commerce, the port has been increasing swiftly and regularly at an average annual rate of 14%. The Inter-American Development Bank has provided the city with a US$20 million loan to renovate the port, enhance its size and efficiency, and allow reduced marine and river transit costs.

The major state-owned enterprises with headquarters in Montevideo include AFE (railways), ANCAP (energy), Administracion Nacional de Puertos (ports), ANTEL (telecommunications), BHU (savings and loan), BROU (bank), BSE (insurance), OSE (water and sewage), and UTE (electricity). These businesses function under public law and are governed by the Ente Autonomo, a legal organization recognized in the Uruguayan Constitution (“autonomous entity”). Additionally, the government holds a stake in other businesses functioning under private law, such as those entirely or partly controlled by the CND (National Development Corporation).

Banking has historically been one of Uruguay’s greatest service export sectors: the nation was once nicknamed “the Switzerland of America” due to its banking industry and stability, albeit that stability has been endangered in the twenty-first century due to the current global economic environment. Banco Republica (BROU), headquartered in Montevideo, is Uruguay’s biggest bank. Almost 20 private banks operate in the country, the majority of them subsidiaries of multinational banks (Banco Santander,ABN AMRO, Citibank, Lloyds TSB, among others). Additionally, there are several brokers and financial service bureaus, including Ficus Capital, Galfin Sociedad de Bolsa, Europa Sociedad de Bolsa, Daro Cukier, GBU, and Hordeana & Asociados Sociedad de Bolsa.

Wireless Internet access is widespread and is available at Carrasco Airport, the Tres Cruces bus station, the majority of hotels, and several restaurants and bars (usually they are advertising it with a sticker in the window). Many are free to use, and their connections are allegedly fast and stable enough for Skype chat. Additionally, several public parks promote the availability of free Wi-Fi.

Central areas

The city of Montevideo extends from the extreme southeast of Rio de la Plata along a circular gulf that offers a natural harbor.

The most interesting area for visitors are the old town (Ciudad Vieja) and Centro. The city’s major sights, monuments and museums but also accommodation, theater and shops can be found there. The old town stretches along a small peninsula that abuts Montevideo Bay and the Centro immediately to the east.

Avenida 18 de Julio starts at Plaza Independencia, dominated by Palacio Salvo, an Art Deco highrise of 102m that is considered the symbol of Montevideo. Another point of interest in the old town is Plaza Constitución, colloquially named Plaza Matriz. Another sight is the former city hall palace (El Cabildo).

Towards the north of the old town one can find architecture reminiscent of Buenos Aires, and in the south it is delimited by the seaside promenade La Rambla that continues all the way to Parque Rodó. This is a popular area for outdoor activities like fishing, strolling or biking.

• Barrio La Aguada is an extension of the Centro towards north whose major point of interest is the parliament, built in neoclassical style.

• Barrio Tres Cruces is an important traffic center in the other end of Avenida 18 de Julio. The intercity and international bus station is located there, together with a big shopping mall.

Eastern and Southern Montevideo

The coast east of Parque Rodó is known for its beaches. Its principal artery is Avenida Italia, a lively road connecting the city to the airport. The Rambla runs along the coast. The most important districts in this part of the city are:

• Punta Carretas – The most upscale district includes golf greens and Hotel Sheraton and Punta Carretas Shopping, a major shopping mall that is built on the remains of a prison (they preserved the prison gate inside the mall).
• Buceo – East along the Rambla, home to one of the city’s many beaches and the World Trade Center with its adjacent shopping mall.
• Malvín – Yet another upscale barrio with a long beach.
• Carrasco – Located in the easternmost part of the city best known for the international airport.
• Pocitos – This barrio lies about 3 km south-east of the city center. The Pocitos beach runs east from Punta Trouville for about 1.5 km. Highrise apartments ring the beach along the Rambla, but going in-land a few blocks brings you into an older neighborhood reminiscent of San Francisco’s Marina district.
• Palermo – A district associated with the African community.

Northern and western Montevideo

The northern and western parts include a couple of sights. The few dangerous barrios of Montevideo are located in the northwestern outskirts.

• Barrio Reus – A small neighbourhood with charming colorful houses.
• Peñarol – Not only the name of the world famous football team but also an old well preserved railway district among the oldest in South America.
• Cerro – Best known for its fort overlooking Montevideo from the western side of the bay.

About 15 km east of the city center is the Montevideo Carrasco International Airport (IATA: MVD). Major cities in South America as well as Miami, Madrid, and Paris have flights to the airport.

There are two kinds of buses that go from the airport to the center of Montevideo. Local buses go to an old bus station a few blocks north of Plaza Independencia. There isn’t much information about them on the Internet, and they don’t show up in the city’s route planner for some reason. Tickets for these buses cost UYU31, and their stop is right outside the airport entrance, across two lanes.

From the eastern part of the country, more luxurious long-distance buses take you to the central bus station Tres Cruces. A one-way ticket for a COT bus costs UYU134. As soon as you get out of the terminal, walk to the right, buy a ticket at the COT office (or on the bus), and then walk 20m forward to the bus stop. Buses that go from Montevideo to the east of the country (and from Tres Cruces to the airport) stop here as well. You should ask if the bus goes to Montevideo before getting on.

As of 2014, the airport tourist office said that a taxi ride to the center of Montevideo costs a scary USD60.

Departure by plane

According to the airport’s home page there is a USD40 departure tax for international flights, which can be paid cash in USD, UYU or by card. At the departures level between the check-in booths and the entrance to the security check there is indeed a booth that says “departure tax”. As of May 2014, people going to Buenos Aires don’t seem to be asked to pay this tax at any point, so it’s likely that the fee is already built into at least some tickets.

If you are coming from nearby Buenos Aires and want to go to Montevideo, you can also take the high-speed ferry run by Buquebus. Tourist class tickets cost about UYU 940 for one way and take about 2.5 hours. Every day, there are several boats. The ferry docks in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja neighborhood, which is close to downtown. From there, it’s much easier and cheaper to take a taxi to a hotel in El Centro or Pocitos than from the airport.

Grimaldi Lines offers freighter service from ports in Europe. The trip takes a few weeks. Cruise ships sometimes stop in Montevideo as well.

In practice, traveling by land means taking the bus, just like in the rest of Latin America. There are buses that go to and from all of Uruguay’s major cities, as well as cities in Argentina, Brazil, Chile, and Paraguay. The central station of the city is called the Tres Cruces terminal, after the neighborhood where it is. In addition to being a full-fledged mall, it has companies with fully-equipped buses that can take you anywhere in Uruguay and even to neighboring countries. All destinations, timetables and hours are available online. The buses 180 and 188, among others, can take you from Tres Cruces to the old town. They also have a great office for tourists there.

If you are traveling from Brazil, you can save almost half the price of your bus ticket if you don’t take a direct bus but instead take a Brazilian bus to Chuy, walk across the border, and then take a Uruguayan bus to Montevideo.

The same company, Buquebus, also runs ferries from Buenos Aires to Colonia by way of Colonia. The ticket can cover the cost of the bus from Colonia to Montevideo. This way is cheaper, but it takes between 1 and 2 hours longer than the direct crossing. By fast ferry, it takes about an hour to get from Buenos Aires to Colonia. The city of Colonia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you should definitely go there to see its old buildings. From there, it takes about two to three hours to get to Montevideo’s main bus station, and a ticket costs about UYU188. One person paid UYU179 for a one-way trip to Colonia, which took about 2–3 hours. Fast and right on time.

If you drive into the center of Montevideo, you should know that many hotels don’t have their own parking spots and it can be hard to find a spot. Parking garages in the city charge by the hour, and it usually costs a lot to park for a long time. They also don’t take care of the cars that are parked there.

There are two ways to get to Uruguay from Porto Alegre, Brazil. One goes through Chu, and the other goes through Jaguaro. Start by taking the BR-116 up to Pelotas for both. Then, if you want to go to Chu, which is the most southern city in Brazil, or the Santa Teresa Fortress, or even the beautiful beaches along the coast of Uruguay, take route BR-392 from Pelotas to Rio Grande, and then route BR-471 all the way to Chu. From Porto Alegre to Chu, the trip takes about 6 hours and 30 minutes. On June 6, 2010, there were 5 tolls between these cities that cost a total of R$ 34.60. They only accept Brazilian Real. After crossing the border, it takes about 30 minutes to get to the Santa Teresa Fortress. If you are too tired to keep driving to Montevideo, you could stay the night at Punta del Diablo. Just stay on route 9 from Chu to Montevideo. About 4 hours and 30 minutes are needed. Again, between Chu and Montevideo, there are three tolls that cost UYU45 each. In this case, they do take money from other places. But you should really pay in Uruguayan pesos, because if you pay in reals or dollars, they will charge you a lot more.

If you want to get to Montevideo as quickly as possible, you should cross the border at Jaguaro. This route is about two hours faster than the first one. Just stay on route BR-116 to get to this city. Then take Route 8 to get to Montevideo.

Montevideo isn’t a very big city, and its public transportation is very good, so getting around isn’t hard at all. If you’re not shy about your Spanish, don’t be afraid to ask people which bus route you need to take to get where you’re going. It can be a fast and cheap way to get there. If you know some Spanish, you can use Cómo ir and MontevideoBus, which are like Google Maps but in Spanish. Bondi can also be used on an iPhone. It shows bus stops, lines, and arrival times. It can be used in both English and Spanish. Be aware that there are no maps of the bus routes at the stops, and that the routes for many lines are set up in a strange way. Also, street signs can be hard to see or don’t exist at some intersections. Buses are also crowded during rush hour, so people who aren’t from the area should definitely plan their routes ahead of time, especially if they don’t speak Spanish. There are several different companies that run local buses, and the prices vary. However, most of the buses in the city center seemed to be run by the company Cutcsa.

If you decide to take a bus, it’s helpful to know that when you get on, you’ll pay either the driver or the person sitting on the right side of the bus, near the door, a few seats back. There are a lot of different kinds of tickets, but the most common one is good for one hour and allows you to change lines. Ask for “una hora,” which means “one hour,” and give the fare (UYU26 as of February 2016). Your receipt will come out of a small machine. Make sure to keep it with you for the whole ride, because sometimes government officials will check for receipts (making sure no one is riding unauthorized). Like many other big cities around the world, Madrid has a system of preloaded cards called Tarjeta STM. If you plan to stay for a while, it may be useful to get one of these cards. If you pay cash for a ticket, the seller may ask you if you don’t have a card.

If you don’t know where to get off, you can always ask the driver or an assistant to let you know when your stop is coming up. Just stay where they can see you so they can tell you. If the bus gets full and you have to go to the back, they’ll yell out the name of the street. Also, you don’t have to have the exact fare because either the driver or the assistant has change. If you pay with bills bigger than UYU100, you can expect to be treated badly.

Montevideo is a pretty safe city, and if you walk around, you’ll have time to look at the city’s beautiful buildings. The city is built on a small hill, and the spine of the hill goes into the Rio de la Plata to make the original city point (Ciudad Vieja). The main street that goes east from the Plaza de la Independencia is 18 de Julio Ave. In this area, you’ll find El Centro (downtown), as well as a lot of shops and places to change money.

When you get off the bus at the central bus station, you can walk south along General Artigas until you reach Parque Rodo and look at the old buildings along the way. From there, you can walk east along the beach promenade, which reminds me of Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro. From the bus station, you can also walk east to Parque Batalle and the Estádio Centenário, which is home to Uruguay’s football team and where the 1930 FIFA World Cup was held. A third option is to walk along 18 de Julio toward the city center and old town. It’s about 4 km to Plaza Independencia.

Most of the time, there is only one traffic light for all vehicles and no separate light for pedestrians. It’s very common for people to walk on the sidewalk and cross the street outside of zebra crossings. Pedestrians are mostly safe, especially in the old town and other places where cars drive slowly. On the other hand, you’re not in Northern Europe, and stepping out in front of cars on the Rambla, where they drive like they’re on the highway, is a terrible idea.

You can walk almost anywhere without worrying, and there are a lot of side streets and areas to check out. Keep in mind that the port area, which is just outside the main tourist and port terminal areas, is considered dangerous by both the locals and the police. Some parts of the city may look run-down, but that doesn’t mean they are bad places to live. This is one of the few cities in South America, along with Buenos Aires, where poverty is not too common. However, Uruguay doesn’t have enough money to build a lot of new, modern buildings, so buildings are kept in use for a long time.

Taxis are easy to find, but they don’t come cheap. Knowing a little Spanish helps. A ten-minute cab ride costs about UYU100. Taxis have meters, and at the end of your ride, you’ll see a chart that shows how far you went and how much it cost (though on some vehicles this chart will be on the window between you and the driver). Usually, there are two sets of prices. The first one is for Monday through Saturday, from early morning to 6:00 p.m.

The second set of fees is slightly more expensive and applies on Sundays and late at night. Tipping is not expected, but if you want to be nice, you could round up to an even number. People also sometimes sit in the front. You can hire a Transfer Service if you want a more private and safe way to get where you need to go. This type of service requires you to sign up ahead of time, has a wide range of vehicles, and can usually be paid for with a credit card.

Car rentals are cheaper if you book them ahead of time, but keep in mind that places like the airport and the ferry terminal charge more than other places in the city for the same services. With just a few phone calls and a cheap taxi ride to a place other than the airport or port, you can get the same car from the same company for half the price. The price of gasoline per liter is about USD 2. If you’re driving around, be aware that signs and lane markings are often bad or missing, and it’s hard to tell how many lanes a street really has. Drivers usually let pedestrians cross first, so you shouldn’t get too close to the car in front of you. Even if it’s going fast, it could suddenly slow down to let a pedestrian cross. At night, only credit cards are accepted at gas stations and their small stores.

On days with less wind, you can ride your bike along the beach promenade. Go to one of the Bicipuntos service points if something breaks on your bike. Most city streets don’t have bike lanes, so it can be hard to get around by bike, especially during the week. A bike, on the other hand, is a good way to get around the city’s parks.

At some hostels and the Plaza Matriz in the old town, you can rent bikes for a fair price.

From the very southeast end of Rio de la Plata, the city of Montevideo stretches along a circular gulf that makes a natural harbor.

The old town and Centro are the most interesting places for tourists to see. There you can find the city’s most important buildings, monuments, and museums, as well as places to stay, go to the theater, and shop. The old town is on a small peninsula that sticks out into Montevideo Bay. To the east is the Centro.

Avenida 18 de Julio begins at Plaza Independencia, which is dominated by Palacio Salvo, a 102-meter-tall Art Deco building that is seen as the symbol of Montevideo. Plaza Constitución, also known as Plaza Matriz, is another interesting place in the old town. The old city hall palace is another place to see (El Cabildo).

In the north of the old town, the buildings look like those in Buenos Aires, and in the south, the seaside promenade La Rambla goes all the way to Parque Rodó, dividing it from the rest of the city. People often come to this area to fish, walk, or ride bikes outside.

• Barrio La Aguada is an extension of the Centro towards north whose major point of interest is the parliament, built in neoclassical style.

• Barrio Tres Cruces is an important traffic center in the other end of Avenida 18 de Julio. The intercity and international bus station is located there, together with a big shopping mall.

Beaches are popular along the coast east of Parque Rodó. Its main road is Avenida Italia, a busy street that goes from the city center to the airport. Along the coast, the Rambla goes. In this part of the city, the most important places are:

• Punta Carretas – The most upscale district includes golf greens and Hotel Sheraton and Punta Carretas Shopping, a major shopping mall that is built on the remains of a prison (they preserved the prison gate inside the mall).
• Buceo – East along the Rambla, home to one of the city’s many beaches and the World Trade Center with its adjacent shopping mall.
• Malvín – Yet another upscale barrio with a long beach.
• Carrasco – Located in the easternmost part of the city best known for the international airport.
• Pocitos – This barrio lies about 3 km south-east of the city center. The Pocitos beach runs east from Punta Trouville for about 1.5 km. Highrise apartments ring the beach along the Rambla, but going in-land a few blocks brings you into an older neighborhood reminiscent of San Francisco’s Marina district.
• Palermo – A district associated with the African community.

The northern and western parts include a couple of sights. The few dangerous barrios of Montevideo are located in the northwestern outskirts.

• Barrio Reus – A small neighbourhood with charming colorful houses.
• Peñarol – Not only the name of the world famous football team but also an old well preserved railway district among the oldest in South America.
• Cerro – Best known for its fort overlooking Montevideo from the western side of the bay.

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The Independence square is a symbol of Montevideo and lined by several prominent landmarks.

• Plaza Independencia. The square at the end of 18 de Julio Ave., with the latter being the main commercial artery of the city. On the last Saturday of September, all the museums and historical places of interest around the Plaza Independencia open for free to the public. There is also a large “Murga,” or a traditional South American parade in which all the Uruguayan political parties take part. The event is known as El Día del Patrimonio, the Day of Heritage. On the middle of the square there is a statue of general José Artigas, and under it, his mauseoleum. 

• Palacio Salvo. Eastern side of Plaza Independencia. Once South America’s highest building, the 95m high Art Deco building Palacio Salvo still dominates Montevideo’s skyline. There used to be an observation deck that could be accessed for free, but as of May 2014 it is closed. 

• Mausoleo de Artigas. This large monument in the Plaza Independencia pays tribute to José Gervasio Artigas, one of the heroes of the Uruguayan Independence. Under the monument is the mausoleum, which is open on the weekends. It contains an urn with his ashes and two honor guards keeping watch.

• Palacio Estévez (Estévez Palace). The Palacio Estévez was the office building of Uruguayan presidents until 1985. Today it is a museum of the Uruguayan presidency. 

• Torre Ejecutiva. The current presidential office, next to the former. The Executive Tower was first planned as a courthouse in the 1960s, the project was halted several times until the house was finally finalized as the presidential office in 2009. 

• Edificio Ciudadela. Glass framed office building at the western end of the square with a terrifying number of air conditioning units. 

• Puerta de la Ciudadela. A gate to the old town; if you pass through it you’re at Sarandí, Montevideo’s main pedestrian street. This is one of the few remaining parts of the old city wall.

• There are practically no old movie theaters left in Montevideo. In the last years they have been rebuilt into churches. However there are good movie theaters with the newest movies in the shopping malls. All foreign movies are in the original language with Spanish subtitles.
• Take a boat trip in a small boat from the pier near Mercado del Puerto.
• Watch a football match at Estadio Centenario. The national stadium is where the first football (soccer) world championships were held, won by the host nation. Today it is used both by the national team and the clubs of the city.
• In some parks there is public training equipment.

• The Rambla. This waterside roadway has people biking, fishing, drinking mate, and enjoying the great views. 22 kilometers-long (13.6 miles), the Rambla goes along Montevideo’s waterfront. Lovely at sunset. 

• Tango. Argentina is regarded as the home of tango, but this is not the whole story. It is also a popular song and dance style on the right bank of Rio de la Plata, and one of the most famous tango songs, La Cumparsita, was composed by Gerardo Rodriguez, a Montevidean composer, in 1916. There are occasionally tango dancing events on the streets as well as performances at some restaurants like Mercado del Abundancia, Baar Fun Fun near Teatro Solis and Restaurant Facal at Avenida 18 de Julio. At some places you can participate if you like. Naturally, you can also find dance schools in the city where you can learn to dance. 

• Estadio Gran Parque Central, Carlos Anaya 2900 (in La Blanqueada neighbourhood). The Gran Parque Central is the stadium of Club Nacional de Fútbol, and it is the oldest football stadium in the Americas. It was also one of the venues of the 1930 FIFA World Cup. Both Uruguayan championship matches and international matches are played here. Price of ticket may vary depending of the type of match. 

• Potatoes, rice, salad and such is usually ordered separately. If you just order e.g. a steak as it is stated in the menu and you will literally only be served a steak. Portions are usually large. In areas frequented by tourist restaurants often offer menus with several courses.
• Cover charges (cubierto) are frequent in Montevideo’s restaurants. They are usually around UYU50.

• La Pasiva. There are several restaurants of this chain in Montevideo, however the two you are likely going to encounter are the ones at Sarandí in the old town and at Avenida 18 Julio opposite to Plaza Fabini. La Pasiva specializes in beer, hot dogs, and chivitos. Chivito al pan UYU285, beer UYU65. 

• Mercado de la Abundancia (Mercado de los Artesanos). Founded in 1836, it’s the oldest market in the city. Like the one in the port it also has steak and paella restaurants, and you can buy things from vegetables to art there or dance tango. It is located in the central part of the city, not far from Museo de la Historia del Arte. 

• El Navio (18 de Julio, corner of Rio Branco). Great chivito and empanadas. 

• Pizzeria Rodelu (corner of Requena and Saramiento). Good place for a quick bite in Parque Rodó. They specialize in pizza of various kinds but do also have other dishes. 
• Heladeria La Cigale. Chain of ice cream bars, several locations. 

• Sidewalk cafes. Cafes abound in the city center and along the pedestrian streets in the Ciudad Vieja. 

A good selection of medium level restaurants are to be found in Pocitos and Punta Carretas in the south of the city.

• Mercado del Puerto. just open for lunch, closes at 6PM. This touristy building houses a dozen or so restaurants. Most offer grilled meat, and you can find good paella, as well. It is usually quite busy – just find an open seat to be served. The most famous of the restaurants there is likely Estancia del Puerto, which was also featured on Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations”, although do keep in mind that there are several other restaurants here as well, worth trying! 
• Trouville, Chucarro 1031 (in Pocitos).  

• La Taberna del Diablo, Av. Gonzalo Ramírez 2054.  

• Don Peperone. With several locations around the city, a good bet for anyone seeking a taste of an American-style chain. This Italian-American themed eatery offers a wide variety of pizza as well as other pasta dishes. Also local dishes such as chivito and milanesa can be had here. around UYU400. 

• K Fe, J.Paullier 1102,  224025887. Open from 12PM to 2AM.. Corner of Juan Paullier and Maldonado, Cordon area: You will feel like in Lavapiez in Madrid, Friedrichshain in Berlin or a Melbourne back alley. Enjoy a coffee in the afternoon or a home cooked meal (always veggie option) in this unique rotiseria cultural in the hart of the city. Clothes, design, exhibition, roots, dub, dubstep, urban art. 

• Café Bacacay, Bacacay 1306. — located very close to Plaza de la Independencia, right across the Teatro Solis and open all day for a coffee or a bite to eat, this café/restaurant offers a variety of very tasteful dishes going from traditional to more innovative cuisine. Service was excellent. 

• Facal, Av. 18 de Julio 1247 (corner of Yí). Fairly touristy café and restaurant next to the Fuente de Candados. Varied menu and tango performances. 

• Panini’s, Bacacay 1341,  +598-2 916-8760. Italian restaurant. 

• Café Bar Tabaré, Zorrilla de San Martin 152,  +598-2 712-3242. A bar-restaurant with classic interior for people with a large budget. 

• La Corte, Sarandi 586. Classic restaurant (not fast-food) in the Ciudad Vieja, with lovely decorations and great food. Four different set lunch menus on weekdays. More expensive menu on weekdays with several choices.

• Montecristo, Francisco Vidal 638. Located in Pocitos, this restaurant offers innovative dishes and is housed in a castle-like building that used to be the house of an alchemist. 

• Los Leños, San José 909. Slightly upscale steakhouse with both the ubiquitous asado served with a fairly wide range of wines as well as several other kinds of dishes. In this restaurant some waiters do speak English as well. 

• Mate — Mate is derived from the herb yerba that was originally used by the indigenous Guarani living near the Rio de la Plata. This traditional drink is ubiquitous – you will see more people carrying a mate gourd and thermos bottle on the streets of Montevideo than people with take-away coffee in New York. Most of the city-dwellers in Montevideo prefer to drink their maté without sugar, called a Mate amargo. Gourds and horns are constantly being refilled with the brew from sun-up to sun-down. But as everyone prepares their own maté, cafés and restaurants seldom serve it. If you would like some, the tea can be purchased in any supermarket – then you need some hot water and a cup, or preferably a drinking gourd with a bombilla (metal straw), available on street markets, some ordinary stores and souvenir shops.
• Salus — A mineral water bottled in Uruguay. If you’re a little apprehensive about drinking tap water, this is a great way to go!
• Tutti Frutti — A mix of delicious freshly squeezed fruit juice with ice.
• Beer — Beer is often sold in 1 liter bottles. You basically have a selection of typical lagers. The most commonly found are Patricia or Pilsen, with Zillertal also often available. You can also order a chopp, which is a draft beer (and if not specified, it is normally Patricia). Uruguayan beers can be bought at UYU80 in supermarkets.
• Uvita — A specialty of Bar Fun Fun, a liquor drink served in a shot glass and tastes of raisins. It is a secret recipe and only served at Baar Fun Fun.
• Medio y Medio — A special mix of drinks made by “Roldós”, in the Mercado del Puerto
• Paso de los Toros (a pomelo based soda, very exotic)

• If you are going to a café it is recommended to try some of the local bread, it’s of great quality and there are many different kinds to choose from. Compared to Brazil the coffee served in both cafés and hotels is reportedly rather tasteless, however in the ice cream café chain Freddo they do have good coffee.

• la Ronda Café, Ciudadela 1182. Mo-Fr 12-late, Sa-Su 19:30-late. A small café with nice interior where you can enjoy music and drink or eat. The food is a combination of Uruguayan and Mexican cuisine. 

• Cheesecake Records, Ciudadela 1118. A record store serving cheesecakes, milkshakes and various drinks. 

• Cafe Brasilero, Ituzaingo 1447. Chic café with regular live performances. The oldest working café in Montevideo, it was opened in 1877 and retains a historical atmosphere with historical photos and paraphernalia. You can have different sandwiches and croissants here. 

• Porto Vanila. Chain of several cafés, located both in shopping malls and on the street. A big variety of sandwiches and pastries.

• Many establishments also accept payment in American dollars or Brazilian reales (in addition to pesos and cards). However, as in most other parts of the world, the exchange rate in the stores is lousy; hence, it’s advisable to exchange your foreign currency to pesos first.
• Often stores do not open before 10:00.

• Montevideo Leather Factory, Plaza Independencia 832,  +598 2 908-9541. This factory has a wide range of leather garments at reasonable prices, and they offer custom-made jackets tailored to your measurements in 24 hours, bespoke coats take a few days. 

• Manos del Uruguay. Several locations throughout Montevideo, mostly at shopping malls. Sells handcrafted home decoration items and fashion for ladies – a little pricey.

• Acatras del Mercado, Yacaré 1595 (Near Mercado del Puerto),  29152492. 10:30 – 18:30. A gallery that specializes in ceramics and also features a selection of contemporary paintings of Uruguayan artists, interesting sculptures in metal, wood, etc. Art pieces of more than 30 different artists from all over the country. This gallery has been operating since 2003 and is part of the MAD (Mercado Arte y diseño) circuit that joins the main galleries and ateliers in Montevideo. all. 

• Puro Verso (Libreria del Edificio Pablo Fernando), Sarandi 675. Mo-Fr 10-20, Sa 10-18. The pretty Pablo Ferrando building is worth seeing as a sight, but if you’re into books, do by all means enter the building. It namely hosts an extensive book store named Puro Verso. There is also another Puro Verso book store at Yi 1385. 

• La Feria Tristán Narvaja Flea Market. Spend part of Sunday morning with the locals on Tristán Narvaja Street, where vendors sell everything from t-shirts to antiques to kitchen supplies. It’s right off of 18 de Julio Ave. and the entrance is often marked by people selling puppies. 

• The fair at Plaza Constitución (in the old town). each Saturday. Antique fair in the old town.

• Villa Biarritz fair. each Saturday. Focusing on women’s fashion and home decoration but there are also food products for sale. 

• Parque Rodo fair. Sundays. A competitor to Tristán Narvaja, it’s a good opportunity to buy clothes and presents. 

• Mercado de los Artesanos, Plaza de Cagancha. This is definitely the place to go to if you want to buy authentic Uruguayan souvenirs or perhaps even Christmas or birthday presents – the catch is that you absolutely need some Spanish proficiency to shop here. An array of artists and craftspeople converge here to sell wares made from leather, paper, woodwork, and various textiles in this indoor market on two floors. Everyone will find something interesting here. The artists usually have their own table or rack with their products. When you have found something you like, notify the artist (if they haven’t already started discussing with you). They will take aside the piece for you, and write you a small receipt. When you are done shopping, go to the checkout desk on the right hand side of the bottom floor with your receipts and pay. Take the stamped receipts and go to the desk to the left where your purchases are wrapped and ready. 

• New Year – Uruguayans celebrate the new year a bit differently compared to others. Festivities already start before noon on December 31st in the old town. In the evening people spend time with their families, but as midnight approaches people gather at Pocitos beach to welcome the new year. After that they continue partying at bars in Pocitos.
• Carnival – The carnival of Montevideo is not as famous as the ones in Brazilian cities. However it goes on for about 40 days, starting the last week in January and considers itself the longest carnival in the world. As other Latin American carnivals it contains both European and African elements. European influences include the parade with colorful carnival dresses and the most visible African feature are the drums around which the music style candombe is centered. This music style is traditionally associated with Uruguayan carnivals and it’s inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The highlight of the Montevidean carnival is actually the Parade of the calls (desfile de llamadas) and subsequent music festival on the streets of Montevideo held the first Saturday in February – both focusing on candombe music. Another important part of the festivities are the murgas, musical-like stage performances by actors in carnival costumes held in several parts of the city.
• Montevideo Comics, e-mail: [email protected]. This is the largest comic convention in Montevideo and the whole country, with conferences, expositions, selling of local, American, European and Japanese comics and souvenirs, RPGs and card games, movies, cosplay contests, among other activities. Usually it takes place in a weekend of May.

Cultural events can be found at the Montevideo Cultura, Descubrí Montevideo and Cartelera.

In Montevideo, there are many places to go out for a drink. But there isn’t much going on before midnight, and if you go to a bar before then, you might be the only one there. In the old town, it’s easy to find cafés, dance and music clubs, and other places where you can learn about the culture. In the pedestrian area of the old town, on the street Bartolemé Mitre, there are many cafés and bars to choose from, but prices tend to be higher than in other parts of Montevideo. Many places have happy hours, and when the weather is nice, you can take your drink outside. The streets of 25 de mayo (Bacacay) and Sarandi are pedestrian-only and have a variety of bars and restaurants with good atmospheres. Avenida de 18 Julio runs parallel to the streets San Jose and Sariano, which are a little bit to the east. You can find good places to stay the night on both of those streets. Lastly, there are several popular bars in the Pocitos neighborhood, which is also a popular place to drink and party.

• Shannon Irish pub, Bartolomé Mitre 1318. Many different beer brands and regularly live bands. 

• El Pony Pisador, Bartolomé Mitre 1325 (corner of Buenos Aires). A bar/club that also has regular live music performances. 

• Café@, Bartolomé Mitre 1322. In daytime it is a bar, but later in the evening it becomes a disco. 

• Bar Fun Fun, Soriano 922 (near Teatro Solis). This classic tango bar is one of the oldest bars in Montevideo, 100 years old. Many famous tango artists have played here. Weekend nights there are live performances, which means that there is an entrance fee. Both the atmosphere and the clientele of this bar is a combination of old and young. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating (the latter is open in the winter too). Try the house specialty Uvita, a drink of grenache wine and port wine. 
• La Bodeguita del Sur, Soriano 840. 23:00-late. Basically a dancing school and a bar. Here you can have a drink, dance or learn to dance – both salsa and other dances. 

• La Casa de Becho, Nueva York 1415.  

• AlmodoBar, Rincon 626. Reportedly a trendy pub in the old town with dancing. 

• Nueva York (corner of Colón and Cerrito). Sympathetic bar in the old town. Good place to enjoy tapas and chivitos and a beer. It’s open both in the day and until late at night. 

• El Milongón, Gaboto 810. A place with typical Uruguayan dance and music, like tango and candombe. 

• Tras Bambalinas (corner of Maciel and Piedras). Good food with big portions and typical Uruguayan carnival music. 
• El Clasico Futbol 5 (Futbol 5 Montevideo), Dr. Alejandro Gallinal 2014 (Malvin neighborhood),  +59891918435. This snack bar on El Clasico Futbol 5 is a good place to drink and eat something after your 5 aside football match. 

• Key club, 25 de Mayo 745. An underground techno venue.

• SONIC, Buenos Aires 584. Electronic music with international DJ’s.